Widely regarded as the preeminent reviewer of Italian wine in America today, Antonio Galloni started this event two years ago.  He modeled it after Daniel Johnnes’ La Paulee, an epic celebration of Burgundy which has grown to 4 full days of tastings, seminars, auctions and dinners.  La Festa is much more modest in scope (thus far) — an afternoon tasting of new releases hosted by the owners/winemakers from 15 of the top estates in Barolo, followed that evening by a sit down dinner featuring gems from the producer’s cellars as well wonderful wines brought by the guests themselves to share with their fellow enthusiasts.

The lineup of owners/winemakers in attendance was mind-blowing in its scope and quality — Roberto Voerzio (Roberto Voerzio), Roberto Conterno (Giacomo Conterno), Luca Currado (Vietti), Chiara Boschis (E. Pira – Chiara Boschis), Enrico Scavino (Paolo Scavino), just to name a few — and the opportunity to interact with so many of them personally is almost unheard-of.  It’s like attending the major league baseball All-Star Game and having the chance to hang out on the field and talk shop in the clubhouse with people you’ve only ever dreamed of meeting.  It was simply thrilling on so many levels.

This year’s event was held at Del Posto, probably the top Italian restaurant in New York City and a fantastic venue for an event of this size and complexity.  The cooking was done in house, and the wine service accomplished by a team of sommeliers brought in from many top Italian restaurants just for the occasion.

The event began with a reception featuring glasses of Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2002 in the salon as guests were arriving and getting their wine contributions checked in.  Once seated, each 10-person table was initially served the wines brought by their host winemaker — in our case, the Roberto Voerzio Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata / Torriglione 2004, which was drinking absolutely beautifully.  Also on the table was a bottle of Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio 2008 left over from the afternoon tasting, but that didn’t make it around to our end of the table.

Once those were consumed in short order, the wines brought by the guests at the table began being presented and poured by the wait staff.   Those included, in rough order of appearance:

• Berteletti Gattinara 1964
• Pianpolvere Soprano Riserva 1990 (magnum)
• G. Conterno Monfortino 1970
• G. Conterno Monfortino 1971
• Brovia Rocche 1978 (magnum)
• Vietti Rocche 1999
• Cavallotto Riserva San Giuseppe 1990
• Mascarello Barolo 1978 (magnum)
• Vietti Rocche 1982

And finally, to cap off the evening, we had a magnum of Roberto Verozio Riserva Capalot Brunate 1996, which was absolutely stellar.

Each of the wines had something to say and much to appreciate, but for me the most amazing experiences to be had in that incredible lineup were the Conterno Monfortino 1971 (surprisingly vibrant, nuanced and elegant), the Vietti Rocche 1982 (similarly complex and ethereal), and my wine of the night (WOTN) the Mascarello Barolo 1978 (so powerful, deep, rich and complex it was something to behold).

The food was an excellent representation of some of the highlights of Piemontese cuisine, starting with an excellent rendition of the traditional vitello tonnato (sliced pork), then moving on to two different pastas (which were sublime) and a wonderful entree of perfectly grilled New York Strip.

While the locus of the evening was the table at which you were seated and served, there was lots of walking around and sharing tastes among folks who knew each other.  Because VinConnect partners with three winemakers among the 15 in attendance (and we know well several of the others), we were frequently circling the room shaking hands and making introductions.

I’ve been asked a couple of times since the event “was it worth it?”  If you simply add up the value of the (admittedly spectacular) dinner and the (admittedly amazing) wine brought by the winemaker at the table, it would be impossible to recoup the $700 cost of the dinner ticket (plus the cost of the wine you brought to share).

But that’s not really the point.  How can one put a price on the chance to meet, talk, share and taste with many of the best winemakers in Barolo?  Or the value of tasting so many amazing, rare, fascinating older Barolos that one might never again come across?  Or the value of the wonderful conversations at table with others equally (or more) passionate and knowledgeable about Barolo?  You simply can’t put a price on those things.

And so, for me, that makes the Festa del Barolo certainly something I’ll look forward to doing whenever it is announced again (next year or beyond).  I encourage you to keep your eyes out for it as well, and to consider attending — if you’re passionate about Barolo, it’s a simply amazing experience that can’t be replicated…

]]> http://vinconnect.com/italy/la-festa-del-barolo-2013/feed/ 0 http://vinconnect.com/uncategorized/les-printemps-de-chateauneuf-du-pape/ http://vinconnect.com/uncategorized/les-printemps-de-chateauneuf-du-pape/#comments Mon, 08 Apr 2013 18:56:02 +0000 Amanda Goldberg http://vinconnect.com/?p=2414 One of my favorite things about growing up in the Vaucluse is returning every once in awhile and truly feeling at home – and a sunny spring day with just a hint of Mistral (north wind) is the perfect weather for a homecoming. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, although probably the most recognizable name of the small villages in the Vaucluse, is no different than the village I grew up in. Their primary economic resources are their land, and almost every villager’s job revolves around working their land, cultivating their crop and taking that crop to market.  In Châteauneuf-du-Pape that means wine, a marked difference from other villages in the region who are better known for their cherries, melons or olives.

The Vaucluse in early Spring

Les Printemps de Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a wine tasting that feels more like a village get-together than an event featuring some of the top producers in the Southern Rhône valley.  Less than $10 buys a ticket to the weekend’s festivities, which feature more than 80 wineries large and small from throughout the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. This is compounded by the fact that each participating winery also has wine on hand to sell, which is incredibly rare for a tasting of this caliber. Needless to say, I saw more than one connoisseur heading out with their arms piled high of their favorite bottles.

The Venue

Generally speaking, Les Printemps de Châteauneuf-du-Pape marks the unofficial consumer launch of the new vintage and provides a great chance to survey what’s to come.  However, as wineries have begun bottling later and later the « new release » vintage tends to vary slightly from one winery to the next. This year’s edition of Le Printemps saw many just-bottled 2011s and as well as a large selection of 2010s. Although 2011 was a much less heralded vintage than 2010, many of the 2011s that I had a chance to taste were quite fruit-forward — perhaps not as concentrated as their 2010 counterparts, but certainly more appealing in their youth. As one winemaker said to me « put the 2010s away in your cellar and bring the 2011s to dinner ». Quite a few people made the comparison to 2004 and 2006 – both vintages that have drunk nicely since bottling (speaking of which, I picked up a bottle of ‘06 Cuvée du Papet from Clos du Mont Olivet that is drinking beautifully).

Clos du Mont Olivet Cuvee du Papet

Many of the regions « stars » were in attendance, including our VinConnect partner Laurence Feraud from Domaine du Pegau.  Laurence was pouring her exceptional 2010 Réservée, 2008 Cuvée Laurence and 2010 Da Capo, along with the wines from her latest venture — Château Pegau – a property which she acquired just last year and from which she is producing some fabulous bang-for-your buck Côtes du Rhône (I took a few bottles of rosé home – looking forward to some lovely springtime picnics!).  Other highlights included Pierre Usseglio, Domaine Charvin, Domaine Les Cailloux, St Préfert and Domaine de la Barroche.

Laurence Feraud of Pegau at Les Printemps

An annual event now that takes place early April each year; Les Printemps de Châteauneuf is an event not to be missed if you are a great fan of wines from the Southern Rhone valley.  See you next year!

Bettina Rogosky of Podere Il Carnasciale and Kevin Sidders of VinConnect

The wines were opened 4 hours in advance and served directly from magnums, as that is the only way they have been bottled since the first vintage in 1988. Given the tiny quantities produced, it’s not surprising that this was the largest vertical tasting in the estate’s history; it will be surpassed in three years’ time, however, when on the 25th anniversary Bettina hopes to taste every single vintage ever produced. The night’s ten wines were served in four flights for comparative purposes: 09-08; 05-04; 02-01-00; and 99-98-96.

The unique labels of Il Caberlot

As you will see from my detailed notes below, there were several common themes — transparency of vintage; rich nose; dark color; silky mouthfeel; a consistently high level of quality; and great drinkability. Much to my surprise, my favorites were the vintages where the minerality was more apparent — 2004, 2001, 1996. That said, they were all fantastic and almost every one would’ve scored in the mid-90s for me. In addition, the food from Executive Chef Justin Everett was fantastic, and the pairings inspired. All in all it was a wonderful evening…

• 2009 – Nose of green pepper (showing the Cab Franc influence), brambles and blackberry. Dark/opaque color. Sweet, ripe, dark, black cherry fruit.  Finishes with black pepper and iron/minerals. 3300 magnums produced.
• 2008 – Ripe black fruit nose with black pepper. Very soft, silky mouthfeel (showing Merlot, in contrast to the 2009).   Dark fruit, but silky and lithe on the palate. Good acidity and great focus.
• 2005 – Dark, brooding nose of dark chocolate and black fruit. Sweet dark fruit on the palate, with a silky soft and beautiful mouth. Finishes a little more red, sour-ish cherry. Round and ripe. 2000 magnums produced.
• 2004 – Leaner, dark nose — less expressive. Dark fruit, cocoa powder, black cherry palate. More acidity, great focus and complexity, sour cherry finish. 1800 magnums produced.
• 2002 – Red fruit nose, with a touch of orange peel. Red fruit (sour cherry, cranberry) and high toned floral notes on the palate. Beautiful cherry and cranberry fruit with gorgeous balance. Very long finish, with good acidity still…
• 2001 – Huge, brooding, Bordeaux-like nose — wow! Dark fruit with iron notes and stunning minerality. Long, complex and deep.  Yowza!
• 2000 – Darker, black cherry nose. Very classic. Round, ripe, full and rich on the palate. Finishes with a little earthy funk, coming across as very classic Bordeaux.
• 1999 – Dark, brooding, rich, black cherry chocolate nose.  Palate tastes like molten dark chocolate cake.  Glorious in a rich, sexy way. 1600 magnums produced.
• 1998 – Slightly lighter color. Leaner nose, a little more sour fruit with some funk and earth. Slightly lighter in weight, but lovely and nuanced. Someone mentioned beeswax on the palate — good call! 870 magnums produced.
• 1996 – Mineral nose with dark fruit.  Vibrant minerality on the palate with black and red fruit. Big, silky, lovely and warm. This has the best of the fruit-driven vintages, with the added depth, complexity and nuance of age. Wow. My Wine Of The Night.  1000 magnums produced.

The first stop on the itinerary was Panzano in Chianti, to pay Maurizia a visit and shoot some video for the recently released Castello dei Rampolla offer (2008/2010 vintages). This glorious estate is just outside of the village of Panzano — turn left at the tiny S. Lucia in Faulle Chapel and after several kilometers of potholes, and plenty of mud this time of year, you’re there. Upon arrival, we were informed that Maurizia was down at the stables — a new ‘ciuco’ had just been born! The only ‘ciuco’ I knew about was ‘ciucco’ (which means drunk in Italian…) so I was a bit confused. I was quickly illuminated on the subtleties of Tuscan dialect in which a ‘ciuco’ is actually a baby donkey. We hopped back in the Jeep for another couple of kilometers to the other side of the extensive property and were greeted by Maurizia, knee deep in mud and carrying this new foal across a field. Apparently the little one had been born the previous evening in the wintry cold. I have to admit, though I grew up in a very rural Arizona town, I had never seen a newborn donkey, and it is undoubtedly one of the cutest little creatures you can imagine! Here is a photo of the new arrival that Maurizia insisted I include.

Maurizia e il ciuco

Curious as to whether Maurizia and Luca employed the estate’s several donkeys and horses for vineyard work, a common practice in ‘pure’ biodynamic farming, Maurizia told me that the dream is to one day be able to do so. However, at the moment the position and characteristics of the vineyards make doing so very difficult. I am looking forward to seeing what the future will bring in any case.

After such an adventure, we headed back to the main house for a tasting and the video.  Have a look if you’re interested in what Maurizia has to say about the just released Sammarco and d’Alceo 2008 and Chianti Classico 2010.

We passed a couple of incredibly pleasant hours tasting and chatting around the fireplace, munching on schiacciata and pecorino. When we finally headed out, the evening sky overhead was crystal clear, illuminated by seemingly limitless constellations of stars (an especially amazing sight when you’ve been used to the lights of the city), and I thought to myself — this is just how it’s supposed to be.

Serenity at Castello dei Rampolla

The next day was spent in Montalcino. Unfortunately the weather was the kind that reminds you that it is indeed the middle of January and you still have a few months to go before Spring begins to peek its head out — that is, it was cold, rainy/snowy and gray. In my opinion, there’s no better place to be on such a day than inside a winery, and indeed a visit to Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona made the morning incredibly pleasant. After a quick tour of the cellar, Mauro showed us plans for the new space dedicated exclusively to hospitality. They have decided to renovate an existing building on the estate, creating a spacious locale to host wine lovers, visitors, locals, and special events. The plans (don’t worry Mauro, I won’t reveal any secrets!) are quite impressive – the highlight being an extensive terrace where visitors can relax and enjoy the breathtaking view over a glass (or bottle) of excellent wine. Ciacci Piccolomini is already well-known, and recognized, for its exceptional hospitality (Angela, Nicoletta, Chiara, Ester e co.), and I am certain this impressive project, scheduled to be open in the Spring/Summer of 2013, will take visitors’ experiences to a whole new level.

We also tasted the new vintage of Brunello (2008) as well as the delicious Rosso di Montalcino 2010, which will both be released in the US very soon, and of course the freshly pressed olive oil.

Tasting with Angela @ Ciacci Piccolomini d’Argona

I am continuously charmed by the picturesque village of Montalcino, with its perfect little streets and astonishing views. It must, however, be noted that January is definitely not high season in Tuscany, and thus, pretty much everything was closed. Luck was on my side though and one of my favorite haunts for great homemade pasta and a glass of wine was still serving. I highly recommend Il Grappolo Blu any time you may be passing through Montalcino, and the ribollita is superb on a cold January afternoon.

Evening light in Montalcino

The next morning we set out from the B&B in Gaiole in Chianti towards Mercatale Valdarno and Podere Il Carnasciale. In the short 30 minute drive we experienced sun, snow, and heavy fog, which lifted only upon arrival at this fairytale-like estate. I had first visited Il Carnasciale in August and it was all just as lovely as I had remembered. Winemaker Peter Schilling took us downstairs for a tasting of the 2011s and 2012s (it was quite an honor to be among the very first to taste the 2012 wines!). Here’s a bit of video in the cellar if you’re interested.

Gracious as always, Bettina and Moritz hosted us for an absolutely delicious (homemade by Bettina herself) lunch as we discussed their plans for the new cellar. More detailed information on the cellar project will follow shortly, but I think it merits a brief introduction here as well. The Amici del Ca’berlot (friends of Ca’berlot – a clever play on words of Ca’ or casa (home) and Caberlot wine) project offers the opportunity to participate in the realization of the cellar to 40 independent investors, each to be ‘repaid’ over a period of 25 years…in 9L bottles of Il Caberlot wine and other winery-based incentives. Not bad at all, I’d say. Ground is scheduled to break this Spring so stay tuned.

Lunch awaits — you can’t see in the photo, but I’m sitting in front of a roaring fireplace…could it get any better than this?

With full bellies and content, we set out toward the other side of Chianti, back to Panzano, to meet Giampaolo and Francesco at Fattoria La Massa. A lot of changes have recently taken place at La Massa, least of which the completion of a brand new cellar. Though I had seen the exterior from afar (Castello dei Rampolla is just across the way), I had yet to visit in person. After an extremely educational introduction to the estate explaining all the in-depth geological and meteorological studies that have been carried out (and continue to progress) at La Massa, I finally got to see the inside of the cellar. The entire structure was designed by a French architect specializing in top Bordeaux wineries, and absolutely no detail was left to chance. Each room, floor, door and ceiling has a well-thought out purpose and is completely logical in addition to being incredibly appealing. Walking through the winery, one can’t help but note the influence of owner Giampaolo Motta’s other great passion — Ferraris. The ‘heart’ of the cellar holds 12 stainless steel tanks (think V12 engine), a black and white checkered tile floor (like the race flags) and the ceiling is painted the exact same color (they actually got samples sent from Ferrari) as the front end of Niki Lauda’s Ferrari! It’s all quite impressive as is the meticulousness and attention in every other aspect of production. With the new space, La Massa will be able to welcome visitors and clients to the cellar to experience all that is behind the wines.

The latest in technology and Ferrari-inspired at La Massa

The visit at La Massa concluded with an exceptional tasting of the Giorgio Primo 2010, La Massa 2011, and very interesting — 2011 samples of each of the separate grape varieties (and different parcels) that will go into the blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot. It was really fascinating to taste each variety separately to get a fuller understanding of how it will all come together to create the final Giorgio Primo (or La Massa). Giampaolo, with the consultancy of renowned French enologist Stephane Derenoncourt, definitely has a clear vision for great things to come.

Alas, the trip was drawing to a close and the last morning was dedicated to Castello del Terriccio, a magnificent estate on the Tuscan coast just north of Bolgheri with a glorious view of the Mediterranean (you can see all the way to Corsica on a clear day). We were grateful guests at Marrana, the estate’s luxurious guesthouse, the evening before, and exceptional comfort, Terriccio monogrammed bath towels and a fantastic breakfast overlooking the vineyards pretty much convinced me that, in a pinch, I could get used to this. In addition to catching up with Giuliana and Giacinta, the women responsible for the Export market, the objective of the visit was to shoot some video for the upcoming Patron’s List offer featuring the Castello del Terriccio, Castello del Terriccio, the Estate’s second wine after flagship Lupicaia, an alluring Syrah-based blend (not generally available in the US market by the way). We also chatted a bit about the history of the Estate — have a look at the video.

After a scenic, and jarring, tour around the Estate (mud and washouts permitting) in the jeep and a quick lunch with some exceptional local Pecorino (which seems to be Tuscany’s only cheese…don’t get me wrong though, when done well, it can be just as enticing as all those gooey, smelly Piedmont formaggi), we bid our adieus and headed out and back to reality.

Literally in the vineyards

And so, as I am once again reminded why the world of wine is so incredible, I thank all of my gracious hosts and hostesses for the fabulous hospitality, and start planning the next trip…

I had been invited to this exclusive event by the captivating Bettina Rogosky of Podere Il Carnasciale, the revered ‘haute couture’ winery in the Valdarno in Tuscany and (I am excited to disclose en primeur) most recent addition to the prestigious portfolio of wineries offering mailing lists through the VinConnect platform.  Bettina’s Il Caberlot 2008 was selected as one of the 50 best wines in 2012, representing the pinnacle of the Italian enologic panorama.

The Visconti

I arrived at the hotel a few minutes early, and a stroll through the lobby was a sort of who’s who in the world of Italian wine. Illustrious and celebrated producers mingled with journalists of the highest caliber, along with a good mix of lesser known, though certainly not inferior,  ‘up and coming’ winemakers and wineries.  After having met up with Bettina, I took my seat and waited to hear what made this classification different.

Luca Gardini

According to the event’s website (English version coming soon), the philosophy of the will-be annual Best Italian Wine Awards is to bring awareness and value to wines ‘Made in Italy.’  Particularly in this period of a relatively uncertain global economic situation, Italy has focused on exporting not just goods, but the idea of the incomparable quality that comes from the artisan craftsmanship behind the making of these goods – wine is certainly no exception and perhaps one of the best examples.  In any case, the idea for the Awards came from Master Sommelier turned celebrity Luca Gardini (2010 World Champion Sommelier) and Andrea Grignaffini, food and wine expert and creative director of the Spirito diVino magazine.  I had met Luca briefly on a couple of other occasions, and I have to say, he’s not your typical sommelier.  His energy is seemingly endless and his ideas ingenious and unique, a true wine personality whose passion and enthusiasm attracts and inspires the like-minded.

The selection was carried out with the collaboration of some of the most important and well-regarded wine professionals and opinion leaders on the Italian and international wine scene.  The tasting jury was composed of prestigious wine experts including, in addition to Luca and Andrea, Italian journalists Daniele Cernilli, Enzo Vizzari, Pierluigi Gorgoni, and two international personalities, Raoul Salama, instructor at the Bordeaux Wine School and director of the prestigious La Revue du Vin de France, and Tim Atkin, English Master of Wine and journalist for important press including The Economist and World of Fine Wine.

The subtitle of the event was ‘I migliori 50 vini d’Italia,’ or Italy’s 50 Top Wines.  The rigorous selection of just 50 was narrowed down from an initial 160 producers (each with just one wine) invited to participate. Each of the 160 wines were tasted (blind of course) over two days, after which each jury member created his own list of the top 50.  No incredibly complicated calculations here – the points assigned by each critic were tallied and each wine was ranked accordingly.  A few additional Special Awards such as Best Price-Quality and Best ‘Pop’ Wine were included as well to mix things up.

The list of ‘winners’ had already been leaked (perhaps even intentionally) to the press, and, in traditional Italian style, had already sparked a bit of controversy in the Italian wine blog world about who was missing, who shouldn’t have been invited, and why wine X should have been placed above wine Y.  It’s obviously impossible for everyone to agree, but people were talking – and they were talking about some pretty amazing Italian wines.

Luca Gardini and Valentini (photo: biwawards.it)

The big coup of the Awards was the number one slot, the “Best Italian Wine,” being awarded to a white wine…from Abruzzo. What?!  Not Barolo?  Not Brunello?  Not a Super Tuscan?  Indeed, Valentini’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2007 stole the show.  Trebbiano is one of the most common white grape varities in Italy, accounting for about a third of all white wine produced in the Bel Paese.  Valentini’s Trebbiano, however, is something completely different.  Among true aficionados, Valentini is considered one of the great maestros of Italian wine, crafting incredibly age-worthy and complex wines from meticulously, almost obsessively, tended vines.  Francesco, son of the original founder Edoardo, is completed dedicated to the land and to upholding the traditions of classic Abruzzese grape varieties Trebbiano and Montepulciano.  Production is small (about 20,000 bottles) and the wines are pretty darn hard to find (even 2* Michelin restaurant, and Milan legend, Cracco doesn’t have a bottle on the wine list), but one sip will change your life – or at least what you thought you knew about Trebbiano…

The Winners (photo: biwawards.it)

The remainder of the ‘top ten’ includes classic Italian greats like: Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Riserva Monprivato Cà d’ Morissio 2004, Tenuta San Guido Il Sassicaia 2009, Giacomo Conterno Monfortino 2004, Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003, Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto 2007, Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi Riserva 2005, Marco De Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Ventennale s.a., Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2001, and Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2006.  (The complete classification can be found on the website.)  I am particularly proud to note that VinConnect partners Roberto Voerzio (Barolo La Serra 2008), Massolino (Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda 2005) and Le Macchiole (Messorio 2009) were among the revered as well.

Perhaps the actual ranking is a bit more varied that one would have expected (and though most of the big names are present, some are mysteriously missing…), but I think it is a good overall reflection of the varying range of personal taste, something that doesn’t always happen in wine guides and magazines.  I also think that Luca and his team pretty much hit the mark — to get Italians, and the world, talking about Italian wines.  At any rate, you have to admit that it’s a pretty amazing group to find yourself among on a Monday afternoon…

Grapes in Mazoyères-Chambertin, nearly ready to be picked

An early morning train ride got me into Beaune just in time to make it to Chambolle-Musigny to see Christophe Roumier. Christophe is notoriously difficult to get in touch with, and Daniel flew to France specifically to find out which wines Christophe plans to show at La Paulée de New York 2013. After seeing to business, Christophe spoke to us both about his 2011s as well as the impending harvest. His 2011s, which only finished malolactic fermentations over the summer, are more rustic than recent vintages, with solid, well-integrated tannins, and lots of dark berry fruit. In his opinion, similar recent vintages include 1998 and 2001. Unfortunately we didn’t get to taste, seeing as it was lunchtime and we all decided that we’d rather keep chatting over lunch than go into the cellar. Restaurants that are open for Monday lunch in the Cote de Nuits are hard to come by but Christophe called down to the Chambolle and got us a table straight away. Over a simple but well prepared lunch we shared stories from past Paulées, discussed the current state of the vines (quite good in Chambolle apparently, despite one of the most complicated growing seasons in years) and discussed his recent acquisition of an olive grove in Provence. Unfortunately there will be no Roumier olive oil – these olives are better eaten than transformed into oil.  After lunch, Christophe accompanied us to our next appointment at Hudelot-Baillet with Dominique le Guen, son-in-law of Joel Hudelot and Chantal Baillet, and winemaker at the Domaine since 2004. We tasted thru his 2011s, from the Bourgogne Rouge thru to the Bonnes-Mares, while Dominique and Christophe discussed different methods of winemaking and shared tractor techniques. The wines were great – showing purity of fruit and stunning terroir expression, a real lesson in the different appellations of Chambolle-Musigny. Highlights included the Chambolle 1er Cru Les Charmes and the illustrious Bonnes Mares which was wonderfully aromatic, showing hints of violet and intense dark fruit. A great example of the powerful elegance that embodies Bonnes-Mares.

From left to right – Dominique le Guen, Daniel Johnnes and Christophe Roumier

Moving right along we made our way north to Gevrey-Chambertin where we had a meeting with Eric Rousseau, both to taste and discuss with him his new contract to farm the vines of the Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, which were recently bought by a Chinese businessman for 8 million euro.  Upon arriving we had the incredible chance to chat for a few minutes with Eric’s father Charles, who is still very present at the Domaine. A few words on the difficulties of the 2012 growing season and his delight that the grapes in Gevrey seem to have survived relatively unscathed and we were off into the cellar with Eric.

Vineyards in Gevrey

While tasting thru the 2011s, that were, for lack of better word – AWESOME – Eric told us about the 2 hectares of new vines that were given to him to farm by Louis Ng, a top executive of one of the largest hotel/casinos in Macao, the Grand Lisboa. In the deal, Eric has added nearly 1.3 hectares of Gevrey-Villages, as well as small bits of Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin and 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques (O.3 hectares of each).  The vines will be entirely cared for by Eric and his team and rent is to be paid to the proprietor in a fixed number of barrels per vintage. As interested as I was in this story, I was completely mesmerized by the wines we were tasting including the Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos St Jacques, Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze and Chambertin, among others. The elegance and depth of these wines was simply incredible. My notes on the Clos de Bèze? WOW.

Domaine Rousseau in Gevrey-Chambertin

Our last stop of the day was at Hudelot-Noellat in Vougeot, run today by Alain Hudelot’s grandson, Charles Von Canneyt. A young graduate of the viticulture school in Beaune, Charles worked with Jean-Louis Trapet at his namesake Domaine in Gevrey before returning to the family business in 2008. We tasted thru the full lineup (13 wines, not including the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain) of truly terroir-expressive wines. I was blown away by the distinct terroir associated aromatics, from village-level Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée, thru to the 1er Crus and the Grand Crus – Clos Vougeot, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg. I was especially impressed by the Clos Vougeot, which was a truly elegant expression of a typically austere wine, on par with the delicious Clos Vougeot from the Mugneret sisters of Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg in Vosne-Romanée.

Dinner that evening was at former winemaker for Domaine de l’Arlot, Jean-Pierre de Smet’s house in Premeaux.  Jean-Pierre had invited a couple of friends over including Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault, Jane Eyre-Renard of Domaine Newman in Beaune and Lois Mills, owner of the famed Rippon Winery in New Zealand among others. Dinner was superb and we all chatted happily while sipping some delicious wines – Lafon’s Meursault-Charmes 2004 and Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu 1998, Domaine de l’Arlot’s succulent Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 2002 and even a Grains Nobles Grand Cru Riesling Geisberg 2001 from André Kientzler in Alsace. Lafon and l’Arlot and Kientzler, oh my!

Kientzler Riesling Geisberg 2001

As I was getting into bed in one of the manor rooms at Domaine de l’Arlot that night, I couldn’t have felt more blessed – what better way to spend 24hrs in Burgundy than barrel tasting with some of my favorite producers, feeling the excitement of an impending harvest and having a wonderful home-cooked meal with good friends and great wines…Vive la Bourgogne!

The manor house at Domaine de l’Arlot

One thing I really came to appreciate about France was the frequent presence of top-notch roadside service areas.  It might sound like a small thing, but after 6 hours in a loaded down Fiat 500 (though it’s actually much roomier than you might think…), I assure you that clean bathroom facilities, a relatively decent selection of baguettes and other lunchtime fare, and tree-shaded picnic areas are a huge bonus.  French travelers are prepared, and many pack a full picnic from home to be enjoyed in complete tranquility, though in reality, just off the autoroute.

France seems to be very well connected when traveling north-south, but if your voyage takes you east-west, there are very few high velocity roads.  The drive from Beaune to Cognac (west) was really quite enjoyable, however, passing kilometers and kilometers of farmland on relatively untrafficked country roads with only the occasional village along the way.  We arrived in the small city of Cognac, located in the western part of France about an hour and a half north of Bordeaux, in the early evening, but it happened to be the summer equinox so the sun was still shining bright until about 11:00.  I don’t know exactly what I was expecting from the capital of some of the world’s most famous spirits, but whatever it was, it wasn’t quite what we found.  When I think of brands like Henessey (part of the exclusive LVMH Group) and Rémy Martin, I think luxury, super exaggerated French luxury. Though definitely not the Champs-Élysées, Cognac does have a pretty little city center with characteristic white buildings and cobblestone streets, and the Charente River running through the town creates quite a charming scenario.

Cognac, Le Charente River and Henessey in the background

There was not a plethora of dining options, but we lucked out and stumbled across Bistro de Claude, specializing in fish and, though not the season according to the only in months with the letter “R” rule, oysters.  The place was packed.  Waiters, and Claude himself, were running around like crazy to serve everybody, but seemed to get a huge kick out of the chaos, making for a jovial atmosphere. The food was fresh and delicious and we enjoyed a refreshing bottle of Sancerre.

When in Rome…or Cognac, we wanted to visit one of the historic Houses to see what all the mystery was about.  We had scheduled a visit to Rémy Martin the morning after the wedding (which was absolutely lovely, by the way, in the quaint nearby village of Courbillac with reception to follow in a Michelin-star restaurant along the riverbank).  Sipping Cognac at 10 a.m. after a wedding of fellow wine-fanatics (and as to be expected….lots of (good) wine!) perhaps wasn’t the best timing, but our schedule was limited.

Double distillation in alembics at Rémy Martin – because of new (strict) French laws regarding the advertisement of alcohol, this was the only room in which we were allowed to take photos

We were received by a very nice German woman, who had opened the establishment particularly for us that Sunday morning. She guided us in an informative tour of the large estate, located in the heart of Cognac, and various storehouses, including access to the exclusive Louis XIII room, where this precious X.O. is aged in 100 year-old Limousin oak barrels.  An aspect apparently characteristic of pretty much all Cognac houses, is black walls.  It seems that there is a particular fungus that feeds off the evaporating alcohol (a small amount of alcohol inevitably diffuses into the air during the aging process in barrel, romantically referred to as the ‘angels share’), thus covering the walls in a black mold.  Less romantic.  At Rémy Martin, lush green ivy covered many of the exterior walls, which they explained was to help keep the cellar cool in summer months.  I think it was to cover up the mold.  Another common attribute is the presence of spiders.  Arachnids have an important role in keeping down the population of other insects that could eat through the wooden barrels and are thus quite welcome, their thick, sticky webs hovering in dark corners and covering old bottles.  At first glance, a far cry from the idea of luxury so connected to a special bottle of Cognac.

For the less spirit-aware wine lovers among you (myself included), Cognac is essentially a brandy, or a distillation of wine, coming from the area of Cognac.  The grape variety used to produce the base wine is generally Ugni Blanc, known as Trebbiano in Italy and common in the area around Lake Garda.  The wine on its own is nothing special, but after a double distillation in copper pot stills (alembics), results in a 70% alcohol eau-de-vie (literally, water of life).  This transparent liquid is then aged in oak barrels, of various sizes and ages, where due to evaporation of alcohol and water (more alcohol that water), it becomes less alcoholic, with the end result ideally about 40% abv.  The real art of Cognac, however, lies in the blending.  Each house has a carefully selected Cellar Master that meticulously crafts the House’s signature spirits, often carrying on century-old traditions.  Rémy Martin is the only well-known Cognac house to have a woman, Pierette Trichet, occupy this very prestigious role.

Eaux-de-vie

Upon conclusion of the tour, we were invited to a separate room where aristocratic maroon colored sofas and armchairs were arranged around a small glass table.  The tasting began with the V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) in two versions: with a chunk of ice in the apéro version and straight up.  My big take-away from this tasting was the new (to me) idea that Cognac could be served as an accompaniment to food, not merely as an after-dinner liquor.  The chilled V.S.O.P. was quite pleasant, the ice slightly diluting the impact of the alcohol, allowing more subtle flavors and perfumes to come through.  Our hostess offered a bigné topped with a slice of smoked salmon to pair – delicious.  The same Cognac at room temperature was paired with a sort of panna cotta; interesting, but perhaps a bit overpowering for my tastes.  The next goutte was the X.O. (Extra Old).  This was accompanied by foie gras, which I don’t eat, but was appealing even on its own.  The show-stopper was the X.O. paired with a molten chocolate tart.  I suppose there are few things aren’t delicious with a pure chocolate bomb of the sort, but I was truly impressed. Perhaps I could be converted, in moderation.

After the visit, a bottle for the collection (not the special collection Louis XIII that runs around €10,000 a bottle…), and a lot of water, we hopped back in the car.  To break up the drive a bit, we decided to spend a night in Narbonne, along the Canal du Midi (originally built as a shortcut between the Atlantic and Mediterranean) and just a few minutes from the sea.  It was a Sunday so pretty much everything was closed, but the expansive city squares, indoor market, and wide variety of restaurants and shops indicated that it could indeed be a pretty lively little town during the week.  They had just closed the doors to the XIII century St. Just Cathedral as we arrived as well, but the structure was absolutely astonishing even from the outside.  The canal was lined with cafés and restaurants, and a major construction project was underway to make the area even more enjoyable.

Narbonne – houseboats along the Canal du Midi

We headed out bright and early the next morning towards the Rhône Valley, travelling to Pont de l’Isère in the north where I had booked an appointment with Alain Graillot.  In the northern Rhône, Syrah is king, and in fact is the only red grape variety permitted in the AOC wines from this sub-zone.  Aside from Cornas, which must be 100% Syrah, some appellations allow white varieties, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, to be added in small percentages.  Though some utilize these white varieties as a sort of ‘natural chaptalization,’ most producers don’t bother with them at all if not to produce an easy drinking white.  The region itself doesn’t yet seem particularly well set up for winery tourism, with the exception of course of large, incredibly organized operations such as M. Chapoutier, which has its own wine school, wine shop, and even gourmet bistrot.  Tain-l’Hermitage, the heart of the area, is allegedly the birthplace of Syrah, and also home of Valrhona, one of France’s best chocolatiers.  You would never know, however, as this sleepy little village is rather unassuming.  Once you get off the main road, producers often don’t even have signs indicating the domaines.  (We had to read the name on the mailbox to make sure we were in the right place….)

I had met Alain several times while working at Ceretto in Alba, as Ceretto-Terroirs imports and distributes his wines in Italy.  The Domaine was founded in 1985 and Monsieur Graillot quickly became a sort of legend in the Northern Rhône, hand-crafting artisan wines from his roughly 20 hectares of vines in Crozes-Hermitage (and two tiny parcels in Saint Joseph). We were actually welcomed by Alain’s son, Maxime, who has pretty much taken over all winemaking and winery operations from his father, technically “retired.”  Maxime is also making his own separate portfolio of wines, called Domaine des Lises, from estate vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage and carefully selected purchased grapes in the most prestigious appellations.  We tasted his Crozes-Hermitage, Saint Joseph, Cornas, a white, and Equinoxe, a super approachable, drink now Syrah with a screwcap (about 90% of his production is exported – not surprisingly, France still isn’t very screwcap friendly). All were very impressive.  Maxime, like his father, is inspired by Burgundy and his wines express an elegance and finesse typical of the finest wines of the region.  Maxime has also travelled around the globe, learning winemaking at the Dijon Wine School and working harvests in South Africa and California.  Though the wines from Domaine Alain Graillot and Domaine des Lises are similar in style, Maxime destems before fermentation, focusing on maintaining fruit, where Alain ferments whole bunches, a more traditional style of the region.  In any case, all the wines we tasted from both Domaines were delicious and a put a new spin on Syrah.

Vines – Les Chenes Verts – Pont de l’Isère

The final stop on the trip was Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  I had visited the region five years before as part of a stage on the Rhône Valley during my time at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo.  With two other classmates, I had been a guest of a family of producers near the village of Bédarrides.  I had such fond memories of that week that I thought I’d try to organize a rendez-vous with Daniel and Noelle.  They were enthusiastic about the idea so we decided to meet for dinner.

We had booked accommodation, however, at the B&B Maria-Andreas, recommended by my colleagues and just next door to one of the most revered Domaines in Châteauneuf, and VinConnect winery partner, Domaine du Pegau.  This incredibly charming B&B has only two rooms, but both are huge (especially for European standards), meticulously decorated with unique pieces of design.  The petit déjeuner is absolutely delicious with homemade tarts and jams, fresh fruit, fresh-baked bread and local cheeses and cold cuts.  Maria and Andreas are Austrian.  A sommelier in the finest restaurants in Germany and Austrias, Andreas decided that he wanted to become more hands on with wine, and left 3* Michelin restaurants for vineyards; he is now making wine at Pegau and, with Maria, runs the B&B.

We didn’t have much time before dinner to visit any cellars, so decided to wander around this picture perfect village.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape literally means “the Pope’s new castle.”  I must admit, the Pope had good taste.  The castle at the top of the hill enjoys a truly magnificent view of the surrounding vineyards, Mont Ventoux, the Rhône River, and in the distance, Avignon.  The village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is at the heart of the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée ) appellation, and gives its name to the Valley’s most prestigious wine.  Acccording to the AOC regulations, some 13 different grape varieties can be utilized in the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and both red and white grapes can be used in the production of both red and white wines.  Generally Grenache (noir) makes up the bulk of the blend for the reds, however.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape is rather characteristic for its terroir as well, where vineyards are filled with smooth stones (galets), which collect heat during the day and release it at night, accelerating maturation of the grapes.  In contrast to the other regions in France where we had traveled thus far, Châteauneuf was hot.  However, the region enjoys the benefits of the mistral, a wind that helps keep vineyards dry and avoid problems with mildew etc. and helps cool an overheated traveller.

Stunning view from the castle – Châteauneuf-du-Pape

We couldn’t have asked for a better conclusion to this week-long road trip in France, ending with a visit to my dear host family at Château Mont Thabor.  After a few adventures with the driving directions (if somebody sends a map to find some place, it’s probably a good idea to print it…and bring it with you…), we turned right after the three Sycamore trees, down the gravel drive, and rang the bell at the gated entrance.  The place was just as I had remembered it — magical.  The estate was built in the XVII century and was named after the historic Galilean Mount Tabor in Israel.  The domaine was purchased by Swiss immigrant Fritz Stehlin in the mid 1800’s, great uncle of the current proprietors, and the Château transformed from a coach house into a winery.  Daniel Stehlin continues to produce Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes du Rhône wines from his nearly 10 hectares of vineyards.  The production is minuscule and much of the wine is sold in bulk, but what is actually bottled is delightful.

Cellar at Château Mont Thabor – the entire production

We were greeted with a fabulous apéritif consisting in every kind of olive and tapenade you can imagine and a bottle of white, made from Grenache (blanc).  Daniel makes only a barrel or two of this refreshing elixir, and it is generally reserved for friends and family – lucky us!  Daniel and Noëlle’s oldest daughter and her boyfriend (also a winemaker for his family’s winery Domaine de la Solitude) joined us for dinner.  Everything was delicious (I had remembered that Noëlle is a wonderful cook) and accompanied by bottles of the house production.  When we finally said our goodbyes and à bientôts, I was truly overwhelmed by a sense of well-being, that all was right with the world.  Perhaps what impressed me most about the evening was that although we really didn’t know each other all that well and didn’t even speak a common language (communication was via an approximate mix of French, Italian and English), I think we all felt completely comfortable and at home.  As I reflected on this, I was reminded once again why it is that I love wine – it brings people together, it tells old stories and it creates new.

Don’t worry, I won’t go getting all mushy now, but this week in France was truly a rejuvenation of body and spirit and a reminder to enjoy the good things in life, like good wine, food, and friends.  Santé!

Beaune’s Thursday Morning Market

I suppose it would be helpful to provide a little background information. This week-long voyage Français was organized around a couple of friends’ wedding in Cognac – an Italian transporter of French barriques and the daughter of a Cognac producer. The stuff of movies. To take full advantage of this unique opportunity, we decided to make a mini ‘wine vacation’ out of the week, spending three days in Burgundy, two in Cognac, and two in the Rhone…and a lot of time in the car. The idea was to finally see some of the places first hand we’d been reading on labels and studying in books for so long, perhaps bringing back a few bottles to restock our cellar as well.

Upon arrival in Burgundy, we met my French counterpart Amanda for dinner at Ma Cuisine in Beaune, the highly-esteemed-must reserve weeks in advance-quintessential Burgundian restaurant. Fabulous local fare, jaw-dropping wine list and exactly the sort of rustic ambiance you hope for and expect when you arrive in what is widely considered the wine capital of the world. A bottle of Saint-Romain 2010 from Alain Gras offered a pleasant accompaniment to my salad of seared Saint-Jacques (scallops), and aile de raie (literally wing of ray). During the meal a couple of very VIP glasses arrived at the table as well, compliments of a generous group of Amanda’s former clients and Burgundy fanatics. (Merci!) A slice of rhubarb tart for dessert and my introduction to the region was pretty much perfect.

“Ma Cuisine” in Beaune – reserve ahead +33 03.80.22.30.22

I think it’s important to emphasize that in Burgundy, as perhaps many of you already know, it’s not as easy as just popping up at any domaine hoping to taste some of their precious nectar. Prior organization, and connections, are essential. I was particularly grateful that Amanda had scheduled her trip to Burgundy to meet with current and potential VinConnect winery partners during the same days in which we had planned to be there. Amanda is very modest about it all, but she’s pretty much got the “in” in Burgundy, having worked closely with many of the most elite producers in the region organizing the annual Burgundy celebration La Paulée with Daniel Johnnes in the USA. Thanks to her familiarity and charm, Amanda organized appointments for us at four different domaines: Pierre Yves Colin-Morey, Bouchard, Dujac and Mugneret-Gibourg.

One thing that struck me particularly about the experience at each of the domaines was that all tasting was done standing up, generally in the cellar directly from the barrel, as most of these minuscule, super sought-after vignerons don’t have any bottles of the current vintage left. Though Italy is still not anywhere near Napa Valley in terms of winery tasting room pizazz (perhaps a good thing), there is generally a tasting space of some sort, even if only a makeshift table in one of the unoccupied rooms. Occasionally you can luck out and get a barrel tasting as well, but these sorts of things are generally reserved for trade. Instead, in Burgundy, the free-standing spittoon and pipette are pretty standard measure. As is mold. I had heard stories of the centimeters of mold growing on French cellar walls, but somehow was still a bit taken aback when I actually saw those rows of old bottles and corner walls completely covered with a soft grey fur. I suppose it’s part of the French charm.

Pierre Yves in the cellar – tasting 2011s from barrel

For me, one of the most fascinating and charming things about wine is that each producer, vineyard, and bottle has its own unique story and style. Pierre Yves Colin-Morey branched off from his father’s (Marc Colin) domaine in 2005 to begin making his own wines alongside his wife Caroline Morey. The domaine is crafting amazing mineral-driven wines from celebrated vineyards like Chassagne-Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne and St. Aubin. Pierre Yves is one of the young rising stars in Burgundy and is doing some amazing things with Chardonnay. Though he didn’t have any of the 2010 left to purchase, he left us with a souvenir bottle of St. Aubin 1er Cru “Les Champlots” – the hand-applied wax that characterizes each of his 80,000 bottles was still warm.

Bouchard was undoubtedly the largest establishment we visited. It is in fact one of the largest domaines in Burgundy, but also boasts one of the most prestigious patrimonies of vineyards with 130 hectares of vines in the Cote d’Or, 12 classified as Grand Cru and 74 as Premier Cru. The Château is located in the heart of Beaune, the romantic below-ground XV Century cellars of the castle holding bottles over 130 years old. We tasted through an array of 1er and Grand Crus, red and white, guided by Morgan, the export manager. As the domaine produces 90+ different labels, I was particularly impressed by Morgan’s ability to provide detailed descriptions of each wine, vineyard and vintage. As this is one of the more visitor-friendly domaines, Bouchard has a well-organized and well-stocked wine shop that’s definitely worth a visit.

At Dujac the winemaker Diana Snowden (the American daughter-in-law of founder Jacques Seyesse) tasted us through a fine selection of unlabeled half-bottles, including a 1999 and 1996 Clos de La Roche – a very special treat. Due to warm weather conditions and vigorous crop in 96, Diana told us that the wine is now at the perfect stage for drinking, with delicate inviting perfumes. Dujac practices biodynamic farming in all their vineyards, but doesn’t really make a big deal out of it. It is considered the best choice for making good wine, in full respect of the soil and the vines.

Domaine Dujac in Morey-St. Denis

Mugneret-Gibourg was a delightful discovery. This domaine au féminin is ably managed by sisters Marie Christine and Marie Andrée, together with their mother Jacqueline. This charming and capable trio took over the entire operation with the passing of patriarch Georges in 1988. The feminine influence is apparent, both in the organization of the winery and the style of the wines — indisputable elegance. As they were bottling the 2010s that day, we tasted through the 2011s from barrel. I was frankly surprised by the use of almost exclusively new oak, which was practically undetectable upon tasting. Marie-Andrée says the secret is in working closely with the tonnelier to achieve the perfect toast.

Besides personally visiting producers, I believe the best way to understand a wine is to visit the land in which it is produced, to see the hills (or relatively flat land in the case of most of France) on which the vines thrive, touch the soil, feel the sunshine in a vineyard. Once you’ve achieved a sort of sympathy with the grapes, understanding the culture of a wine growing area is essential. Where there is good wine, there is generally pretty outstanding food as well.

For our last evening in Burgundy, we decided to splurge and booked dinner at Le Montrachet located in the charming village of Puligny Montrachet. Perhaps I’m biased, but I generally prefer Italian cooking to French, and often tend to find la cuisine Française a bit exaggerated with too many sauces and, though greatly appreciated in moderation, too much butter. After a string of excellent meals in Burgundy, I was once again proven wrong (pleasantly so) and everything was delightful from start to finish. The restaurant was very welcoming, service was impeccable, and our table enjoyed a beautiful view of the terrace and gardens. The highlight for me, however, was the cheese. After the main and before dessert, an unassuming wicker basket-cart rolled up alongside the table proffering a glorious selection of fromage, from soft goat’s milk cheeses to strong Roquefort and pretty much everything in between. I like to think that the cholesterol consumed in that single plate was pretty much cancelled out by all the antioxidants in all the red wine I’d been drinking. If not, it was worth it anyway.

Le Montrachet

The next morning after a ‘light’ breakfast at our charming bed and breakfast L’Octroi Saint Jacques, we headed out, saying farewell to the enchanting city of Beaune and its Côte, having at least cracked open the door to the world of Burgundy, and with the hope of returning very soon.

to be continued…

Destination: Cognac.